Page last updated 21 April, 2003

Replacement

Page under construction - more photo's to follow soon

The headlining is a lot smaller than on most cars, but has a rather awkward shape at the rear to contend with when refitting the material. I made a new lining from leatherette which was to match all other panels being re-trimmed, and as for the sunroof, the material likes to stretch in one direction more than the other - so you I had to make sure the best way was chosen - in the front to back direction.

To start with, the shape was traced onto the new material and it was cut out, leaving enough extra material round the edge for the fixing "loops" which needed to be made in the lining to hold the mounting bars (there are 4 of these) which attach the main piece to the roof before gluing down. These loops were sewn in using a matching thread (not cotton as this is too weak), so when the material is stretched any thread showing will blend in.

Once the lining is sewn, it can be offered up to the roof to test fit. Make sure you've threaded the four mounting brackets through in their correct location and the right way round - each hole was drilled manually in the factory so they're all over the place! Always fix with good quality screws so in the event of removal in 10 years time the heads will not fall apart when undoing.

Start by getting the material glued to the sunroof surround - this will make the rest of the process easier. It's always best to start from one end, and work your way along when a car has no sunroof, but in this instance the sunroof hole has to be done first to stop the material kinking at the sides of the sunroof aperture (as these will stretch differently to the part with the large hole in it!). Use an impact type adhesive - see my links page for the supplier of this glue - it is designed for automotive use and will not lose its stick when heated by the sun (like other type impact adhesives).

Use as many small bulldog clips as you can to prevent the material shrinking and causing ripples (available at your local stationery store), or alternatively use the new strong plastic type clamps available at many hardware & DIY stores, or sometimes more cheaply from larger market traders. Apply the glue to both pieces to be stuck, then leave for a couple of minutes until touch dry - then stick together. This glue allows a certain amount of repositioning, but be warned - it will stick solid after about 10-15 minutes on a 20ºC day.

Once sunroof surround is glued, try the aluminium sections for fit. The material I used was a bit thicker than original, so the two side members had to be filed down slightly. Also check that the side sections slide over the material properly where the bracket seams are - you may need to trim the lining and stretch the aluminium to allow these to fit properly. Finally fix all the sections in place using the rivets on the front & rear, and the special screws on the side panels.

Working at the front of the car, now glue the front piece to the top of the windscreen surround, stretching before gluing & clamping. This will ensure you get no kinks. Be sure to fit the wiring for the interior light (or make sure if already fitted it won't work loose) before you glue down the headlining.

Do the same for the rear of the headlining, although where it goes from horizontal to vertical be very careful as a crease will appear - this is very hard to get totally flat as the material only stretches properly in one direction. Glue all of the back piece before going on the the door frame pieces - any imperfections can be stretched out from here.

The best advice for this task is to take your time, allow at least 2 days to complete it (so glue has enough time to dry between stages), and make sure you have plenty of latex type gloves to save yourself having to wash your hands in cellulose thinners (not recommended)!