Page last updated 3 May, 2006



Technical Questions - Chassis
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Date asked

Question Answer

18th February 2006

By Mike Bailey

What size steel is used on a 1974 2500M with serial number 2937. I will soon be starting a ground up project on a car that I just purchased and would like to start buying some stock.

The square tube size is:

Imperial: 1.5" x 1.5", thickness is 1/16"
Metric: 38mm x 38mm, thickness is approx. 1.5mm

In fact over here, there are only two 1.5" square tube types available - one thin walled (1/16"), and the other thick walled (way too heavy for a chassis, not sure on wall thickness but edges are too rounded also to match original tubing).

29th June 2005

By Michael Bartlett

Firstly thanks for all the information on your site, I’m looking at buying a 3000M and its been very useful.

I need to transport a spare chassis and wondered if you knew the approximate weight of it, to check it does not exceed the weight allowed on the roof rack.

I don't have the weight of the chassis, but do have the following:

Ford V6 3.0L Essex engine (not certain if gearbox included) = 379 lbs
TVR 3000M = 2240 lbs

From these weights you can't work it out but if 2 trolley wheels are bolted to the chassis at 1 end, I know I could move it around on my own by lifting the other end. 2 people could lift it, but to get it onto a car roof i think it's a 4 man job - therefore I would guess from that it weighs around 400 - 500 lbs.

I'll put this question on the website & hopefully someone will answer with the correct weight. Does anyone reading know the weight?

Update on 3rd May 2006 - answer supplied by Thomas Erprath:

I´m still restoring a 3000M from `77 and I read the question about the weight of the frame.
I´ve measured it because I was thinking about transporting it on the roff of my daily used car.
The weight of the frame is 85 kilogramm.

5th August 2004

by Andrew Gerrard

I want to get the car up off the ground with axle stands, where is the best place for them and were is it best to jack it up? The place to jack up the car is:
At the front - behind the front wheel where the crossmember meets the 45 degree section above it. This is at the front of the driver & passenger footwells. The idea is to jack it up to spread out the load as much as possible - for example never place the jack under the centre of a tube or it could bend. I actually plated the 4 jacking areas with 3mm steel when I rebuilt the car to prevent future problems at Tyre shops...they tend to be the biggest problem of any car enthusiast. I'm lucky enough now to have access to that equipment so it saves me a lot of bother.
At the rear - in front of the rear wheels below the vertical chassis tube for the differential area.
Axle stands are best under these jacking points using some rubber or cardboard to protect the chassis tubes. Make sure the axle stand platform sits so the chassis tube sits snugly inside it. However to do this you will need to place the jack somewhere else! At the front use the crossmember under the engine as this is very strong - use a bit of MDF or plywood to spread out the load on the tube (prevents crushing as described before).
At the rear, use the jack, but for safety place an axle stand under the tube as near to it as you can.