Page last updated 27 September, 2011
Questions - Drivetrain
Click here to go to Homepage (if you see no orange TVR & navigation bar at the top of this page)
26th August 2011
By Philip Roper
I have just
finished replacing the UJ's on my 1600M and am now putting the driveline
back together... however I don't know what is the best grease to use on
the spline of the half shafts, can you suggests one?
use Moly (Molybdenum) Grease - simply as that's what is normally found
in most CV Joints these days and the friction reducing properties help
reduce wear on the splines.
14th August 2011
By John Kievit
I've had a recurring problem with vibration from the rear of the car. It kicks in around 50 mph. I greased the u-joint in the prop shaft which helped a bit but didn't solve the problem. I asked a mechanic to have a look and he suggested that if the prop shaft were about an inch longer it would straighten the shaft and reduce the possibility of whipping. I have to admit that when I was reassembling the car and reinstalled the prop shaft I was a bit surprised that the gearbox end of the shaft didn't slide onto the pinion very far. It makes me wonder if I have the right prop shaft. Is this a TVR part and do you know what the length of the shaft is supposed to be?
Follow up by John on 21st Sept 2011
dropped the differential about 5/8 of an inch and the vibration disappeared.
You may remember
also that I was having all kinds of carb problems. I bought a new carb
which fixed that problem.
The propshaft length is something that could occur if the prop was modified (i.e. shortened at the front) to fit to a 5 speed gearbox, then fitted to a 4 speed car. Apart from this, have you checked the run-out of the rear hub flanges. I have a new hub to fit to the 3000M due to an out of true flange. This happens when the wrong method of flange removal is used (I'm working on a new tool for this as it's almost impossible to remove these without it).
helps - if it's the hub see my homepage as they are available as a unit
now with bearings/hub complete.
18th December 2009
p.s. I wish
I had made some pictures but I did not. But the case is simple right?
It really works and the lead is strong enaugh to keep the UJ bushes in
place and is soft enough to be pressed out what was to much.
|Thanks for the tip Milko!|
25th April 2007
My car has
ben garaged for a while and I think the clutch plate is seized. Clutch
pedal moves just as usual with the same resistance I would normally expect.
That rules out a hydraulic/cable issue?
Follow up on 11th May 2007
Tried the axle stands technique - no luck, not initially anyway.
Left my car overnight on the sloping driveway in first gear with handbrake off, nose pointing uphill. When I went to try to disengage first gear with the engine off and put clutch down, I could feel the car slipping backwards bit by bit before I had actually got it into neutral. Started the baby and I drove it up the slope into the garage no problems!
doing that, having the weight of the car on the slope working against
the seized clutch overnight just finished off what had been started with
the axle stands technique?
onto your question regarding the seized clutch, there are a few things you
can try to free it off - two of them you've already described. From what
you describe I take it that although the clutch feels normal, the car won't
go into gear with the engine running, but does ok when switched off?
The best method bearing in mind your garage position would be to put the car on axle stands and get an assistant to press on the clutch pedal - then you will be able to see if the clutch fork moves on the gearbox (at the other end of the clutch cable). If so then try the following:
Jack up the rear of the car both sides. Start the engine with the car in say 4th gear, raise the revs to approx. 1000-1250rpm - try the idle speed adjustment screw on the carb to allow it to idle at this faster than normal speed. Keeping the clutch pedal PRESSED fully down, the rear wheels will be spinning as they are off the ground. Now with your other foot, apply the footbrake lightly at first and progressively press harder. If the clutch plate frees off the revs will rise quickly so you know when it frees. Make sure the car's well supported and can't fall off the axle stands/jacks!!
If this method doesn't work, you will have to somehow take the car out of the garage and try this method again, but instead of braking, try letting the jacks down simultaneously (2 assistants required). This is a bit tricky and also may involve the car shooting forward if it doesn't work first time - so make sure there's enough room for this just in case. This method is a bit harsher but shouldn't do any damage.
Hope that helps you sort it - they can seize up quite badly after just one winter - especially like the damp weather we had a few weeks ago.
9th March 2007
By Dennis Schils
My name is
Dennis i'm from Belgium i've bought aTVR2500M a couple of months ago the
car is completely restored but i have problem.
Follow up by Dennis on 10th March 2007:
Belgium again thanks for your quick answer to my diff question.
for your email. I'm not entirely sure whether the noise/juddering you
describe is caused by the same problem, however the Differential can "clonk"
when worn or faulty...as can juddering. First take a look at the propshaft
to make sure the Universal Joints are in good order and aren't about to
fail. Make sure it's mounted to the diff. and gearbox correctly, and that
all fixing bolts are in place. If so, the vibration could still be caused
if the propshaft is out of balance.
M-Fix follow up:
The spacers I'm almost certain are standard only on the Salisbury diff models. To remove the half shafts you need to undo the circlips on a U/J and move it out of the yoke. If you have to remove the diff flanges, take off the wheel, brake drum, shows, then undo the drum fixing nuts to the hub. Undo the half shaft rubber coupling boot clip and slide out the brake backplate/hub/outer half shaft complete. This will then allow you to undo the 4 diff flange bolts and take off the inner half shaft.
4th March 2007
By Dean Legg
|Do you know if the Taimar axle is TR6?||The
Taimar could have either the TR6 or Salisbury Differential fitted, although
all cars from chassis number 3955FM had the Salisbury unit. Half shafts
and rear hubs/discs were TR6, but the hub carrier was TVR's own cast alloy
Easiest way to tell is to look at my Technical Manual in the chassis section, full restoration page. The first photo is the chassis and diff - this is a Salisbury unit. The TR6 unit has a much less substantial frame "hanger" - quite easy if you take a look under your car.
5th August 2006
By Martyn Harvey
My car has
a Chevrolet 350 cu ins engine and has been driven for 25 years as
Follow up on 6th August 2006
Do you have
any pics of your "trap door" and/or any instructions how you
way to remove the diff without body removal is to make a hatch (see the
technical manual pages) like I have. This can be removed and with the
rear screen removed it will allow the diff to be hoisted out.
a photo of it on the Interior section overview - it's simply an aluminium
plate with an "X" shaped crossmember made from angle aluminium
riveted on the underside. After cutting out the storage tray fibreglass
this screws down in its place.
22nd March 2006
By Jonathan Edwards
Can you tell
me the standard ratio for the Salisbury diff on a 3000M? If it
there an easy way to check it is the Salisbury and not the TR
attached a photo of the
As for the
ratio, I think it is 3.31:1 but not sure if the LSD and non LSD
20th March 2006
By Carl Toellner
are there differences with the prop shaft between Triumph TR and Salisbury
Or is it the same item?
Yes the propshafts were different - part numbers are different in the M Series Parts Catalogue (available from David Gerald Sportscars Ltd - see my links page).
11th July 2005
By Olivier Loyez
The differential front mounting plate of my 3000M is damaged: the metal is sheared-off near the chassis mounting point. I believe it can be welded again, but I need to remove it first. I intend to follow the sequence:
-disconnect prop shaft at differential end (four bolts)
-disconnect mounting plate from diff (4 screws)
-undo diff to chassis bolts (2 bolts)
Access is difficult, but I am hoping not to have to remove the exhaust.
done this before and if so is there any major difficulty I should be aware
Update on 13th July 2005:
A quick update on my original query: I managed to remove the front mounting plate of the differential without removing the exhaust or the differential itself. The tricky part is to undo the nut on the diff shaft (holds the flange connected to the prop shaft) as it is difficult to prevent the wheel from turning as you try to un-tighten it.
your sequence is ok, but don't forget the half shafts need to be removed
also to take out the diff. unit.
The diff is very heavy and requires either the bodyshell to be removed, or the rear window and a special access hatch fitted to the inside rear storage area (see the website in Technical Library section, Interior, Overview).
You will need a small engine hoist or similar to lift it out without straining!
31st March 2005
by Christian Proud-Diaz
car runs very well at that time, the only trouble I have to fix is an oil
leak on the rear axle. Might be the seals between differential cage and propshafts... What is your opinion? Is it complicate to fix? Do I need to remove arms, etc. ? Bolts and nuts are very rusty and I'm afraid to break them on removal...
diff seals can be changed with the diff. but the half-shafts need
also need to undo the flange nut and extract the flanges on the
The job is
quite involving and would certainly be easier if you have access
gives you a little idea.......I will try to do a full article on
7th June 2004
noticed recently a squeak coming from the rear end under load
On a rolling
road earlier today for a tune up, we noticed the car rear end
I need to
get het car up on ramps for a better inspection - any view as to
like a UJ is working loose in a drive flange or half shaft...or possible
the needle roller bearings have broken up and cause one part of the shaft
to move before settling under power. Check these first, but possible the
clonk is the crownwheel/pinion, or spline wearing out on the propshaft to
pinion, or a halfshaft sliding joint (unlikely). The UJ's can be removed
(sometimes with trouble) by removing a pair of opposite circlips and tapping
the roller bearing inwards to offset the spider, then tap back the other
way using a drift on the spider or nylon mallet on the halfshaft. Once both
bearing cups protrude enough the spider can be wiggled out (make sure the
wheel is off the gound to allow the halfshaft to rotate separately to the
diff flange which will aid removal.
by Nigel Hucker
need to change the UJ's on the drive shafts of my Taimar.
I am having problems removing the hub from the rear hub carrier.
I have removed all the brake parts, and the six nuts from the studs which secures the hub to the carrier.
Have tried jacking the back plate away from the hub flange using Threaded bar and nuts, but it just won't budge. any tips?
you know that there's no need to remove the rear hub carrier to change the
But it is a lot easier if you take the hub out to do the inner joint.
I'm assuming that you've undone the rubberboot on the halfshaft sliding joint so that the hub & outer halfshaft are extracted as a whole piece?
As you have the braking system removed and the six nuts removed then the only thing keeping it in place is rust/corrosion or maybe some gasket sealant which could have been used (to prevent corrosion!).
The easiest way to loosen this up would be to bolt the wheel back on and use this as a lever - by rocking it side to side it should release the hub. Failing that you could try using a slide hammer on the wheel studs (see the bodywork tools section on website), the shock should free it after a few attempts. I seem to remember having some trouble removing the hubs myself due to some corrosion.
Finally if all else fails the best method would be to remove the complete halfshaft (outer first by undoing the flange to the diff), slide off the inner shaft from the sliding joint.
Now the outer half shaft is free you can remove it from the outer u/j which will leave the yoke of the hub in place. Use a block of wood and a lump hammer to knock it out (making very sure the car is safely supported and won't fall on you).