26th August 2008
By Mr Walsh
have a ford essex V6 engine, bored to 3.1cc by specialsed engines in Essex,
i want an opinion on what oil to use, i have put fully synthetic and there
is now a little smoke on tickover, i'm sure its the oil ?
Did you run the engine in using a basic oil first? Just helps to bed in the rings but you may well know that already.
Otherwise sometimes the valve guides can be machined a little too large - not going down that road though as pretty unlikely.
What grade synthetic oil are you using? The only one I would use in an Essex is Mobil 15W50 Motorsport as the other grades of Mobil 1 are too thin - ie 0W40 & 5W40 etc - please see http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1.aspx
If your oil is not the above it may be worth trying, or another similar grade of good quality oil. The Essex engine is too old to run on the modern grades of fully synthetic oils.
28th July 2008
By Jos Leen
BOUGHT A 3 LITER TVR TAIMAR FROM 1978.
FROM THIS MODEL THEY MADE AS WELL A TURBO VERSION.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO CONVERT IT AND INSTALL THE TURBO VERSION ON THE EXCISTING ONE !
ARE THEY STILL MADE THE TURBO PIECES AND WHERE CAN I GET IT !
CAN YOU SEND ME SOME TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE TURBO !
the Turbo was a special edition from the factory - a few were made and the
Turbo was placed in front of the engine, so the exhaust manifolds ran forward
to it, then a single exhaust pipe ran to the back underneath the car.
I have tried to find out about converting the 3000M to Turbo specification, however the inlet plenum chamber would be extremely difficult to source. I do know of one owner who did manage to do the conversion but he made his own plenum chamber by making it specially from cast alloy. The plenum if you didn't know is the air intake which housed the carburettor to allow it to be pressurised without blowing the fuel out of the spindle seals and float chamber vent. The other pieces required would be exhaust manifolds & system, turbo, turbo bracket (you could make this), plus suitable tubing for the intake system, a new air filter, various vacuum tubes & a bleed off valve to allow the turbo boost pressure to be adjustable.
Hope that helps you a little. There is a V6 Essex Turbo investigation study available on ebay sometimes as a reprint (not on there today) which shows the engineering study made during tests using a prototype engine.
15th July 2008
By Luc De Brucker
|I have a question about the vacuum
After I removed the air filter I saw a hose with no connection.
One side of the t-connection goes to the distributor, the other to the inlet manifold.
Can you tell me where to connect?
The vacuum hose goes from the carb to the PVS (the valve on the inlet
manifold) and also from the carb to the distributor through a 1 way valve
then to the distributor vacuum capsule. The idea is for the PVS to be
closed when the engine temp is under 71ºC and the vacuum is fed through
the 1 way valve, locking the distributor advance on max to prevent misfiring..
When above this temp, the PVS opens and allows the normal carb to distributor
vacuum operation, therefore allowing it to advance/retard the distributor.
17th May 2008
|I have an Essex V6 Capri Motor and the engine builder is having problems with the Hepolite Powermax Pistons +0.060 with valve pockets , The problem is the Clearance and expansion of the Pistons. Has any one got any specifications for my Australian Capri V63000.||I
know this depends on the camshaft type fitted. High lift cams require pockets
to be machined from the pistons to allow suitable clearance. Minimum clearance
should be 1.5mm between valve & piston according to one camshaft manufacturer.
These duration cams don't need machining:
270º Valve lift 9.82mm/9.82mm
273º Valve lift 11.35mm/11.35mm I have tried this and it's fine
290º Valve lift 9.55mm/9.49mm I have tried this also, and it's fine
The high lift long duration cams are the ones that require machined pistons have the following specs:
290º Valve lift is 11.17mm/11.12mm
300º Valve lift is 11.73mm/11.68mm
310º Valve lift is 12.29mm/12.24mm
320º Valve lift is 12.65mm/12.65mm
4th Jan 2008
By Mick Peacock
|1600 crossflow with Weber 32/36 DGAV carb. (Sorry, it's on a Morgan). Engine runs on. Running on unleaded fuel; Broquet fuel catalyst installed. Also ran on when using leaded fuel. Crankcase breather (with inline vacuum valve) fed into carb. Car checked by local tuning outfit. Suggested removing breather connection to carb; blank off carb connection. (Had tried this during check up and it stopped running on). Assumption being that engine was running on sump gases. Also fitted hotter spark plugs. Worked for a while - now runs on occasionally or blows back violently through carb. 30,000 miles covered, valves last adjusted at 18,000 miles. Automatic choke which works properly. Carb overhauled recently. Any ideas, please.||Thanks for your email - all welcome whatever your car! The engine breather is always a likely cause of the running on - used to happen to a mini I owned which ran backwards after being turned off. The MG metro was fitted with a solenoid valve to stop this problem I remember - think it was on the breather pipe itself. As the problem has now returned, I would suggest it could be the plugs fouling up still, but as they are hotter they should run cleaner. However there may be some carbon deposits in the head chambers which act like a glowplug when the engine is turned off - it may be time for a decoke. Before going further though make sure the carb's not flooding (float height incorrect, float needle valve worn out), and also that the ignition timing isn't wrong.|
11th December 2007
By James Collier
|I've seen a kit over here for fitting a remote oil filter and cooler. This uses an attachment which screws on where the filter goes, which enables the filter to be positioned elsewhere and get round the space problem. I can then also fit the cooler in series. Do you have any suggestions where I can take off a feed for the oil temp sensor, I guess it has to be in the block or sump somewhere? Or could it be in the hot side of the filter take off? Hopefully I'll be able to sort this out and be able to enjoy the TVR in the height of summer as well as winter, the oposite of the UK!|| For the oil
temp sensor you can get an adaptor which fits in the oil pressure switch
gallery. I have one but haven't yet fitted it, probably because it fouls
something - can't remember what though. Sump is cooled by airflow, so the
gallery is best place for accurate oil temp. There are other galleries you
could use - they are the 1/4 NPTF (national pipe thread) galleries - but
be aware they can be impossible to undo without drilling (as I found when
cleaning the galleries at rebuild time). Best to get an adaptor to fit where
the oil pressure switch goes, then crew the switch onto this adaptor. Interesting
as I had another enquiry re: oil coolers this week from Australia also!
I'll let you know once I get a chance to look at the adaptor I have.
Follow up on 20th December 2008
I had time today to go over to see the TVR. I'm pretty sure the oil pressure/temp adaptor has a 1/4 NPT thread that screws into the block. From there you can choose the female size in the t piece eg 10mm, 1/8NPT etc etc. However, due to the location of the original oil temp sender, a T piece will screw in but there isn't any access for the side threaded take-off on the adaptor to take a sender unit. Therefore you would need to fit 2x of these t piece adaptors, and cap off the side take off in the 1st one. You should then be able to use the 2nd one to take both the pressure sender and the temp - even though it's quite a long unit. I see you can also get a special sump plug to take a temp sender - see this page and then go back to the main page for these items to see the other adaptors & sender units. I'm sure you can make up a suitable system from these.
you will need to make sure the block you have does have a 1/4 NPT thread - quite rare these days but it may be different on your engine.
Here's the link for the adaptors available:
8th December 2007
By G P R Booth
|Would you be able to tell me what the head bolt torque setting should be for a 1973 Ford Granada 3000 V6 engine. Thank you.||
No problem - these are the figures I have:
Stage 1 = 7 lb ft
24th November 2007
By James Collier
I have a problem with my 3000M where it is very hard to start. The starter motor turns over very well as I have fitted a new 600cca battery. When I jump start it off my deisel truck (940cca) it starts first time. When it has been stopped and started again the ignition light does not come on, it bogs down and back fires under heavy acceleration and the battery gauge shows "off charge". I guess this is an electrical problem(s) and have checked the earth leads, HT leads, etc. I wonder if it could be something to do with the electronic ignition??
Response from James on 25th Nov 2007
Cheers for the advice, I've checked all the points you suggested, which are ok other than the battery getting not 13.5V. I found that the alternator was getting fed 12V but only putting out 12V so I'm having it checked out. I ended up getting a new alternator which sorted out that ignition switch issue.
|It sounds like you have an earthing problem...but you say you have already checked them. Make sure you have full continuity (i.e. between 0 and 1.5 ohms) using an ohm meter from the battery negative terminal to the chassis, and also from the negative terminal to the engine block. Then check for 12+V at the starter terminal (main solenoid feed thick wire), and also at the alternator (both thick brown wires). Check alternator earths ok also. Check charge light bulb on the dash isn't blown (this will stop the battery charging), and also run the engine and check the battery is getting over 13.5Volts charge.|
28th June 2007
By Richard Cairns
have a tired 1600 crossflow engine in a Sprite.
It is not blowing smoke or using oil and revs pretty well but has a flat spot when accelerating (45mm sidedraft webber).
I took the car to get the webber tuned and was told that my compression was down probably due to incorrect pushrod length.
I have since done a compression test all cylinders are 95-100 dry and come up to 100-105 wet. How can I find out if the pushrods are wrong or if it is a head problem?
sounds like compression is too low. I would expect to see approx 140psi
on an older engine, but up to 200psi on a very good one. I am waiting for
a data book to arrive on these engines but looking at Burton Power's stock
list I can see the standard one is shown to be 7.6" long. Take one
out and check its length. Saying that, you shouldn't have the wrong ones
fitted because if you did, the rockers wouldn't operate correctly. Check
the rocker to vale stem clearances, and if correct then turn over the engine
to see if the rockers operate all the way through one engine cycle (2 turns
of the crankshaft). If you have your gap and full operation then the valves
are shutting ok, so therefore it cannot be the pushrods.
Has the engine been apart recently or have you just bought the car? I would suggest checking the cam/crank are timed correctly (gears for timing chain should be marked to align on this engine I think). If out by 1 tooth on the timing chain you will never get full compression. Maybe the chain tensioner has worked loose (i've seen this happen before on a crossflow). Perhaps even a reground cam or replacement performance cam has been fitted but not timed in correctly using offset dowel keys? This would be high on my list of reasons going by the experience with the V6 Essex cams!
Otherwise it would be perhaps the cylinder head (as you tried wet & dry compressions with no real difference it shouldn't be the piston rings). Maybe valve seats are poor, maybe head gasket leaking if oil/grease was left on block/head before fitting, even maybe a cracked head but unlikely as this would normally show up on only 1 or 2 cylinders. Low compression will mean starting is poor but improves once engine is hot. I take it the compression tests were done with a hot engine? Of course the flat spot could be caused by the carb settings - very likely.
25th June 2007
By Rob Stanway
Just a quick question, can you tell me what I should be setting the timing to for a standard 1600m? I started looking at the engine yesterday after rebuilding the carb. I thought is was running a bit rough and checked the timing. It was set to TDC! I've set it at 10 and is a load better, but I can't find a definative figure anywhere, some things say 8 or 9, others around 12.
Follow up by Rob on 25th June 2007
Thanks Mark. It's funny you say that... I've had suggestions like; as much as possible, obviously without pinking. The xflow haynes book I have was suggesting 8 - 12 and the lotus book I have (for twin cam head) was saying 15.
So I guess I'll suck it and see, I think I'll run it at 10 for a while and then change it as see what I think. My carb is a normal 32/36 DGV with a vacuum advance as is my dizzy.
Also I've been informed I have the griffis seats in my car as they have a wire support for the foam base. would you knowwhere I could get new ones? Or should I just manufacture something myself?
If it helps I'll you know what I think about the timing, mught be usfull on the site.
100% sure as there were various types, but think it was 10ï¿½
by cross referencing from various articles. I am hoping to put the Kent
Crossflow data in the members section at the weekend, just waiting for some
more reference material before doing so - will let you know when it's on
Just to add to the above, Aldon do various non-vacuum distributors to suit engines with non standard carbs & cams etc, their standard settings for these distributors ranges from 10ï¿½ to 14ï¿½ so that gives you a good idea. Make sure you stay as low as you can - any pinking when running could start to melt a plug, or worse a piston!
11th June 2007
After rebuilding my carb last week and getting it running right I had a problem on Friday with the idle. When starting from cold it was fine, reving correctly and running well. However after about an hour of driving it would not idle. Stopping at junctions and traffic lights I would have to use the choke or heal to the brakes to keep the engine going. I spend some time roaming the internet and found that a chap with a lotus had had the same problem and after trying everything he replaced his plugs and leads and all was well. So I did this and it would appear to be the same problem with a bad spark.
Sorry about the rambling, Im getting there, on removing the first 3 plugs I inspected them to check if Id got the mixture right on the carb, all was well, however the 4th plug is not! Its odd half of the plug is correct, with a pinky brown colour, and the other half is sooty black.
I have a compression tester thatll use this week to test the compression, but what do you think it might be? Piston ring? Valve seat?
be a fuel or spark or combustion problem. I have seen a similar problem
on an old Jaguar XJ6 before - and the spark plug colour was different as
is yours. Traced it to a problem with the inlet manifold take-off for the
brake servo. Does the inlet manifold have a servo take-off? Perhaps it has
a leaking gasket which affects the fuel/air mixture? To test for this spray
a little wd40 on the inlet manifold around no.4 cylinder and see if the
engine speed changes. Make sure the WD40 fumes don't get sucked into the
air inlet of or the engine speed will change and would disguise the result
of the test.
Just a thought - worth checking here first, but also check the carb gaskets aren't leaking, none of the vacuum pipes are missing from the carb, that the distributor vacuum capsule (if fitted) hasn't got a leak (lets air into the carb vacuum takeoff constantly).
If it doesn't stall since the plugs were changed then maybe it was just a plug, but keep a check on the spark plug colour frequently until you find out what's caused it.
15th April 2007
By Scott Sowards
from the USA. Just found your site, wonder if you may be able to help answer
a potential purchase and subsequent project I am contemplating. Have had
a TVR 3000 S on my short list of cars to own since I was a teenager in mid-70's.
They are very rare over here and I may have located a nice one on offer.
I am wondering if it is feasible to convert the 3000 S to Turbo specifications and what is involved, aside from the obvious. Have just begun poring over 30 years of periodicals and the web researching exactly what the differences were between the normally aspirated 300 S roadster and the exceedingly rare Turbo roadster.
Any help you may provide would be appreciated. Thanks.
convert to Turbo spec. is going to be difficult due to the rarity of spares
for this conversion. It would be easier to convert the car from scratch
to your own design rather than try to find the original parts. The turbo
would of course be no problem to find, or the exhaust as these are available....it's
more on the inlet side of things that you'll need to fabricate a pressurised
plenum for the carb to operate....unless you want to go for fuel injection!
The book I sell on the website by Graham Robson may be of interest to you if you want technical information - it is the best reference book for these cars that I know of containing a lot of data.
26th March 2007
By Steve Marriage
I have a 1700 crossflow engine. Oil is escaping from around the oil filler cap and through the dip stick. The dip stick does not fit particularly well however and I was wondering is this just a question of poor seals in both cases or something more worrying?
Follow up by Steve on 26th March 2007
The dip stick is very suspect. How much oil should the engine hold? What should I expect to see in PSI on the oil pressure gauge?
There is no blue smoke from the exhaust; the head was reconditioned 2 years ago including new valve guides. It looks like ring wear or a blocked breather, but it could just be too much oil in the sump. Would piston ring wear produce any other noticeable symptoms? The engine runs well and has plenty of power though.
Further follow up on 28th March 2007
The oil pressure is about 60+psi at 4000 rpm about 30 at idle. The reading is higher when the engine is cold, when up to temperature the figures are as shown.
Does this sound like too much oil as I think it could have been overfilled because the dip stick is so unreliable? I suppose the only way to be certain is to drain out all the oil and replace with exactly the correct amount and re-calibrate the dip stick. Then run the engine and see how much the pressure reads.
What do you think?
like your crankcase pressure is possibly too high. This could come from
piston ring wear (i.e. combustion gas escaping past the piston rings), valve
guide wear (although you would also possibly notice smoke from the exhaust),
a blocked breather tube, or even overfilling the oil.
First check the engine breathing system is ok, if so then check the compression of the cylinders, then recheck after putting a squirt of engine oil down the bores. Expect to see a normal compression reading around 160 - 180 psi, If lower than 150 psi then there is some wear to the rings. If the reading goes up substantially after the oil being added to the bores then this will confirm the rings are worn/damaged or the bores are worn. There are other problems such as holed pistons etc but see what this test comes up with.
Reply to follow up:
According to the data I have, the engine holds just over 3 litres of oil. Please take this as a guideline though as i am not 100% sure on this. Oil pressure should read around 40psi at 4000rpm as a general rule - at idle much lower. How much are you reading?
Ok as for the head you can rule that one out, piston ring wear causes excessive breather fumes to blow out of the filler cap - so that's why I mentioned worn rings. A compression test needs to be done to determine this...from what you say though if power is good then perhaps they are ok. A blocked oilway is another possibility, or the oil pump relief valve has stuck therefore not limiting the oil pressure correctly.
Reply to 2nd follow up:
You may have
a high pressure oil pump fitted - but 60psi max when fully hot is recommended
by most as a general guideline for these pumps. I found this to be a problem
as already mentioned regarding a stuck pressure relief valve in the pump
- giving way over 60psi before fitting another pump. Some High pressure
pumps have been modified and unchecked by the supplier and can be too
high. 30 psi at idle is healthy however so not a worry. It will always
read high when the engine is cold as the oil is thicker, so always measure
when it's hot.
11th March 2007
By Alan Whitaker
|Do you know the weight of a powermax
piston + 60?
||Many thanks for your email. I'm sorry
I have no technical data for these pistons...will look into it for you though
and see if I can find anything. More to follow.....
10th January 2007
By David Franklin
I am looking to purchase a recon V6 3 litre to put in
a 1967 Reliant
1. Are you able to advise where that rebuild took place.
2. I understand that the engine has been standing untouched
for a number
|1. I am not sure who would have rebuilt
your Engine, however I do know that
Burton Power - http://www.burtonpower.com may paint their recon. engines in
blue as their photos of their engines have shown blue paint to have been
used in the past.
2. The engine condition will not be easy to guess. There are good ways of
storing engines as well as very poor ones - thde only real way to find out
is to remove the sump & cylinder heads to inspect everything. Ask the
seller for more information on this one - e.g. has it been stores inside or
outside, did they inject oil into the bores etc etc
4th January 2007
By Padraig Duane
When I bought my car I was told that the Essex engine in it had a Kent cam fitted, unfortunately the seller didn't know what cam it was.
I know that my engine revs better than another friends car and we have the same spec engine except for this cam.
If I take the cam out is there any way of differencing what Kent cam I have?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The cam should be marked on the end with something like V61 to V68 - however for road engines it is likely to be a V61 (Mild Road 270º), V62 (Road/Rally 290º), or a V63 (Fast Road 276º) variant.
Valve lift is the only way to tell otherwise....and may be easier than removing the cam (as seen in the members section of my website). the V61 has 9.82mm valve lift (both inlet & exhaust), the V62 has 9.55mm inlet and 9.49mm exhaust valve lift, and the V63 has 11.35mm lift (both inlet & exhaust).
4th January 2007
By Dave Blackburn
I am rebuilding a standard essex engine and was wondering
if you would still
Dave's follow up on 5th Jan 2007:
Other than burtons are there any other places you recommend
I would recommend fitting the steel cam gear if at all
possible, as the fibre teeth on the standard one can get brittle with
age and fall apart. The steel gear makes quite a bit more noise but at
least you know it won't fail on you. Standard spec engines are ok for
the standard gear but it's just the age and likely years of stress on
the fibre teeth that is the problem.
You could try these people:
Also try Ric Wood http://www.ricwood.com, he is very knowlegeable but is sometimes slow to reply as he's always busy. Has set up a CNC business alongside his Capri/Essex Engine business and so makes some really nice engine stuff now.
30th July 2006
By Peter Scott
car is a 3000S and my question is: what are the torque settings when refitting
the rocker covers on new gaskets ?
setting is 2.5 to 3.5 lb/ft (or .35 to .42kg/m)
torque settings available in the members area.
24th July 2006
by James Collier
I'm having a problem with my 3000M, where it will stall under load, either on hills or on any more than very light acceleration. This is mainly a problem when the car has been driven for about 30mins. Once stopped, the engine starts again after a few minutes at rest. I'm guessing that it is a fueling / ignition advance problem causing over or under fueling? Have you any experience of this? The car is fitting with an electronic ignition system.
Follow up on 22nd August 2006:
Thanks for the advise, I've replaced the coil as it looked a bit shot and aslo think I might have a problem with the choke / throttle sticking. I've yet to take it out to test again though.
like it will be fuel or ignition related. As you have electronic ignition
check all is ok inside the distributor cap with the rotor arm & cap
electrodes. Check vacuum advance works. Check for a spark when problem occurs
- could be coil breaking down.
If all is ok there then move on to the fuel system - first of all make sure the choke is working correctly and isn't stuck on when engine is hot - this is quite common.
If no luck, check the float level (remove carb top), but before that check the carb's fuel filter under the fuel inlet pipe. Also check the fuel tank isn't full of rust & blocking off the intake tube, that the fuel pump is working ok, and that the fuel pipes aren't too close to the exhaust or engine - sounds like it may have some fuel vaporisation problem. Make sure the fuel cap vent isn't blocked as vapour lock can occur (open the cap and listen for a rush of air when problem has occurred - if there is then the vent is blocked).
Please let me know if you are still having problems after these checks.
22nd July 2006
by Peter Scott
just found your site but can't figure how to ask technical questions ? My
car is a 3000S and my question is: what are the torque settings when refitting
the rocker covers on new gaskets ?
setting is 2.5 to 3.5 lb/ft (or .35 to .42kg/m)
11th July 2006
By Simon Worthington
--- got any info on Ally heads on a TVR turbo (V6 essex)..........
Ric Wood - he makes these - http://www.ricwood.com
3rd February 2006
by Jerry Stockwell
I have an
Follow up by Jerry on 8th February 2006
Yeah it is
as you say - the outer sits in the guide on the top side of the pedal
box - I think the main problem is the change of angle as the inner goes
through the bulkhead - it is vertical in the engine bay side but is severely
angled on the inside of the car as it goes to the throttle pedal and this
change in angle is where it passes through the metal plate of the pedal
box - hence the wear.
like something isn't quite right there as the end of the throttle cable
should sit in the cable outer guide...sorry car not to hand at the moment
but I'm sure from memory an adapter allows the cable to sit inside it -
then locates in the top of the pedal box. If a groove has been worn into
the pedal box cable hole then I guess the cable is somehow contacting the
pedal box directly? A new cable and (possibly with the new cable) you can
use a machined end (normally alloy) which allows the cable to locate correctly
in the pedal box hole. Try getting a mountain bike brake cable from your
local Halfords store as they are teflon lined and usually one is available
with some alloy end inserts - useful for home made cables.
The cables are always way too long so hacksaw the cable outer, then solder the inner at the cutting point BEFORE cutting off with a good pair of wire cutters - this way it won't fray.
30th December 2005
The reason for this email is I thought you might be able to help identify this manifold; there are some interesting features that I have not seen before.
3 bolt carb
fixings plus the open end which I am unsure of its purpose, as to who
made this manifold is unclear the only details that I have is this was
from a very early 3.1 X pack Capri the chrome finish has been done be
the original owner , was this manifold a pre-production ford item?
Answer from Axel Tenkink from the Netherlands on 27th Jan 2006:
inlet manifold must be an early attempt to fit triple carbs on an essex
engines are recognisable externally by the fact that their
The is presumably a possibility (outlet) to link up to a heater system.
I used to
own a LHD TVR Tuscan (only 6 were built!), at present I run a 1973
Answer from Jason Cooke on 20th June 2006
Regarding the inlet manifold on your Technical Questions page....
of manifold was original produced by a company called "Tecalemit
I know this
because I also have one of these inlet manifolds which I will be
I have never seen a manifold like this - the square (water take off I am guessing?) The 3 bolt holes for each carb is also strange - why not 4? Can't be standard Webers on there - although the intakes look like DCNF sizes. Perhaps a second part (i.e. plenum or intake pipes originally bolted on to the manifold with a remote throttle body?? Seems unlikely if this manifold is 20-30 years old. Perhaps from a turbo engine?
If anyone can advise or suggest anything please email us with your comments here
18th October 2005
by Duncan Ross
The Engine for some reason sprays oil out of rocker cover cap. I have cleared the breather hole but to no avail it looks like there is some serious back pressure there but I have no idea where to start looking for the problem. (TVR 1600M)
has been rebuilt 900 miles ago with hepolite pistons, strengthened cranckshaft
and unleaded gas flown head. So if something wrong there I'm in for big
trouble. There is no excessive pressure at the dipstick. Could it be just
a choked oil breather?
cap oil problem could be down to the seals not fitting correctly, but
you've not mentioned where the oil is coming out of i.e. around the edge
of the cap, or through the breather. Check the dipstick tube for crankcase
pressure (carefully lift out the dipstick with the engine running to see
if the pressure is as great there). I would certainly check the compression
of all 4 cylinders first to make sure the piston rings aren't worn out.
I am guessing on a figure for the pressures but guess anything from 150
Psi to 200 Psi would be seen - any less and the rings/bores may be worn.
This also depends on the compression ration but the above figures are
what I would expect.
Response to Duncan's reply:
would be worth checking to make sure the engine is ok - don't forget that
new engines have less compressions slightly until the bores/rings bed
in. At 900 miles it should have started to bed in though - check the compression
as this will tell you if anything is wrong. I have seen a new factory
engine with a broken piston ring before - it's not unknown - so things
need checking to make sure, whoever built the engine. Try a "dry"
compression test (all plugs removed, foot to the floor on the throttle).
Then try a "wet" test - same but a single squirt of oil from
an engineer's oil can - any significant rise in compression means there
is a ring problem. No rise on a poor compression reading could mean the
valve guide to valve stem clearance could be too great - hence combustion
pressure is travelling up the guides into the rocker area. Of course this
may be seen as blue smoke from the exhaust when the engine is started
but if the stem seals are new they may stop this, but still allow pressure
from the cylinders to escape into the rocker area.
23rd June 2005
By Bob Carroll
|Ive got conversion set of Weber DCOE40s to fit a TR6. However, once I got them and held them up over the original carb setup, it looks like there may be some trimming of the footwell and/or heater ducting. I cant be sure because once I saw the potential interference, I set them aside rather than pulling the old intake and carbs (and replacing the rather expensive gasket in the process). Do you know if any cutting actually is required? Im planning to run the carbs without velocity stacks and with RamFlow filters installed because they are the lowest profile ones I could find with the smallest lateral footprint. If anyones done this conversion before and can tell me if there are any chassis mods required, Id really appreciate it.||I
haven't got any info on this conversion I'm afraid, so I have placed your
enquiry on the main page & technical questions pages & hopefully
someone will give you an answer pretty soon.
If you can help please see same article on homepage and send us an email.
23rd May 2005
By Paul Bennet
I still have
my tvr 3000m in bits !!.
Just to let
you know that I had to let my local classic car workshop have a go @ getting
the coreplug replaced.
position of the coreplug is tricky - as you have already found out. The
metal ring you mention is (I'm pretty sure) just the way the block has been
machined, so don't try to remove it.
Not sure on the diameter, but they are tight to fit anyway and usually need a good belt with a suitable drift (or socket if no drift available) and a lump hammer (carefully!). Engine removal may be your only option if unable to get it in I'm afraid, but you could always try sticking the new plug in the freezer for an hour before trying to fit - sometimes it helps me with tight wheel bearings to freeze the shell first.
25th April 2005
By Mark Kavanagh
|Can you tell me the correct size of the inlet manifold bolts? Did not notice when removing it that it had 2 lengths of bolt? Has someone made a mistake on previous rebuild?. Also where can I purchase off the shelf chrome rocker covers?||Sorry
I only have one set of these bolts and they're on the car so I can't measure
them. However from memory I'm pretty sure that there are two lengths as
the bolt holes in the manifold are different depths. Place your bolts in
the manifold and see how much thread protrudes from each hole, then you
can put them in the right place. If some stick out further you'll need to
measure the depth of thread available in the cylinder head so they don't
As for chrome rocker covers, i've not heard of these before on an Essex, but you will be able to chrome the standard pressed steel ones if you take them to a chroming company, see below:
Try Chrome Restoration Specialists - Tel/Fax 08704 430481, or Wooburn Metal Polishing & Plating Ltd - Tel/Fax 01628 850911
27th March 2005
By Mark Kavanagh
|The timing gear on my essex v6 is of the later ford type,that is with the black plasic teeth. It shows no wear but would you still advise to change to a steel gear?||Yes that's the fibre toothed gear alright - change it as soon as you can!|
20th September 2004
By Chris Wiggin
I own a 1600m
but unfortunately the engine expired last weekend. I am considering buying
a completely reconditioned unit from Vulcan Engineering (www.vulcanengines.com).
I have posted this question on the TVRCC website and had a response from a club commitee member that a friend fitted the same Vulcan engine in his car and it drove brilliantly but he did warn that the diff casing is prone to carcking and may not be up to the job. I also emailed David Gerald TVR and Doug Elwood this to say:
"As the 1600 m shared its suspension and brakes with the (138 bhp ) 3.0 l V6 cars this sould not be an issue ; however the diff will really not be up to the job and its a fairly major task to convert to a stronger type; also cooling system will be an issue".
Now i'm really concerned that the diff will not take the extra power but I've noticed that you have fitted a V8 to a 1600 with no apparent problems. If you could spare a few moments to let me know your thoughts i'd really appreciate it. I use my 1600 for occassional sprinting, classic rallies and track days and would love to fit a 145bhp unit but i'm now thinking I should just fit a reconditioned unmodified unit. I should say I am completely un-techy and can just about spot the difference between an engine and a gearbox so if you could type your response slowly i'd appreciate it!
I would say the Salisbury diff (the stronger diff fitted to later M Series
cars) is better, but if you bought a reconditioned TR6 diff from Rimmer
Brothers then it should have a guarantee of at least a year. 145bhp is not
much above a standard 3000M so if it were my car I would try the diff "as
is" and see what happens! In the mean time save up for a Salisbury
diff conversion, but as Doug said it is expensive to do as apart from the
difficult to find Salisbury diff, you need complete new 1/2 shafts, a new
diff cradle & bushes, and I think a different propshaft.....none of
those bits are common or cheap. Of course I am able to fix things myself
and that does help a lot, so please ignore my "risk it" suggestion!
The article you read was from someone who converted their 1600M, and looks like the diff. was fine after it was rebuilt - I would suggest keeping it anyway as the TR6 wasn't a low powered car anyway.
6th August 2004
I have a 1600M which has a sluggish 1600 Ford Cross Flow. I have a Ford 1800 Zetec engine which I would like to swap.
Any experience or advice please?
this one I've not seen yet! Still, engine conversions have been pretty
If you get
anywhere then the next thing to do is work out where the new
by Trevor Bevan
|I have just reconditioned my Essex 3ltr v6 engine,it is 30 years old,and a friend of mine advised me to change the fibre cam wheel next to the timing gear for a stronger one out of a mk 1 capri or a granada because the existing one may break,i am told they are stronger. or could you tell me where i could buy one,the engine is for my gilbern invader mk 3.||Your
friend is right about the cam gear being weak, but i'm not sure about the
granada/mk1 capri gear being steel. I know the Mk1 essex engine was different
slightly but almost sure they all had fibre gears. The V4 Essex had a steel
gear but unsure again as it also had a balance shaft so may differ and be
incompatible with the V6.
Your best bet would be to contact Burton Power who do indeed stock this item. It is produced by a company called Quaife, but i have contacted them and they say contact Burton Power - no savings there!
by Hans "3000M"
|As I think I can see on the photo's of your engine the "pcv" is not connected to the carb or the airfilter. OK, for the environment there should be a connection, but for the engine itself? People who race TR-engines told me they had to connect the pcv at the inletmanifold or the oil would blow out. But is this the same at the Essex V-6?||The
breather pipes from the rocker cover on each side go into a collector bottle
near the gearbox - so oil that condenses from oil vapour drips into this
bottle for periodic emptying.
It is normal to feed this pipe back into the bakelite spacer on the standard essex carb setup, but i decided not to do this so oil is not fed into the induction side of the engine.
Updated on 18th May 2003
While Doing the dummy build on our V6 Essex 3ltr we have run into the problem of our brand new valve springs from the UK binding before getting full valve lift. Now my question is:
What is the installed height of the original valve springs on a V6 Essex?
When rebuilding an engine a clearance of at least 1.5mm between coils is recommended. Less than this and the head will require machining to give you a suitable clearance. Also check valve guide to spring retainer clearance is not going to cause a problem. I don't have the data on the valve spring installed height I'm afraid, just that the standard free length should be 47.955mm (1.8880").
I guess you
have a high lift cam? The 1.5:1 Yella Terra roller rockers with a Kent
V62 road/rally cam give plenty of clearance on my heads, but the cam is
not high lift.
by Mike Jeffs
brought some Alloy rocker covers from Ric wood and they dont have a fitting
for the PCV to fit in, i noticed you have very similar rocker covers, how
did you get around this problem?
||The rocker covers on this site's featured car are from Ric Wood too. I used a 90º threaded elbow pipe fitting, drilled and tapped the rocker cover, then just screwed it in with some thread sealant liquid. The collar for the oil filler was supplied already fitted. The oil cap is from a 1.6 XR2 Ford Fiesta or any 1.6 CVH engined Ford.|