Technical Questions - Gearbox
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Page last updated 18 September, 2011





Date asked

Question Answer

6th September 2011

By Pete Garrett

I'm just trying to confirm which gearbox I have in my 3000S. All of my documentation says it is a Ford Type "E". But, Burton Power says that my gearbox is a Type 5.
I believe that Burton Power is correct ... the picture of the Type 5 on thier web site seems identical to the gearbox in my car.

As a means of confirmation, Burton Power says that if my input shaft is 1" od, with 23 splines, the box is a Type 5. If the input shaft is 7/8" od, with 20 splines, the box is a Type "E" (2000E, I believe).

Without disassembling my drivetrain I cannot confirm this information. Can you confirm ... did the 3000M's and S's use the Type 5, with 1" input shaft, and 23 splines? Can anyone accurately confirm the 1" and 23 spline information?

Follow up by Pete on 6th Sept 2011

I HAVE confirmed which box is used in the 3 litre cars ... it is the Type 5. This seems to be how it worked out ...
I have documentation, from Ford, that clearly defines the 3.0 Capri gearbox as a Type"E"
it seems that over the years this definition of the gearbox has morphed into a Type 5. The Type "E" is now only associated with gearboxes tied to engines of 2 litre's, or smaller.
the Type "E" and Type 5 look VERY much alike ... you have to REALLY look close, to notice the differences. But, the torque capacity clearly shows up in the different sizes of the input shafts (1 inch vs 7/8 inch)
At any rate, I have found out that I cannot get a lightweight casing to replace the cast iron anchor that my gearbox represents.

So, I am looking into swapping the cast iron 4 speed for a T-5 5 speed. I have a few questions about this swap ... might you have some info for me?

My questions …

On mating the T-5 to my 3.0 Essex engine …
Do you know of any articles detailing this swap? Or, someone selling the parts required?
I know I can buy a bellhousing (aluminum) from Burton Power to mate the Essex to the T-5
Is there a specific T-5 I need to use? Mustang? From what year? How do I identify the correct T-5 for this swap?
Does the T-5 come with a variety of input shafts (lengths and diameter) and spline configurations? What should I be looking for?
Do I need a special clutch for this conversion? Or, maybe, only a special clutch disc?
What changes are required to the lower gearbox mount?
How do you deal with connecting the speedometer to the T-5?
The stock 4-speed has a switch that indicates the gearbox is in reverse … does the T-5 have a similar switch (a simple on/off switch, just like in the stock 4-speed)? How do you get a reverse indication?

That’s about it. At this point, I’m just wondering/dreaming … but, it basically seems like a somewhat simple swap. Unfortunately, as we all know, “the devil is in the details”.

That makes total sense as even I was assuming it was the type E until I saw the photo you mentioned in Burton's website. Before the internet this would have been almost impossible to find out!

I think the T5 that's used over here is from the Ford Sierra Cosworth from the 1980's & perhaps some late 80's/early 1990's Granada models. I only suggest these as they were the only UK cars fitted with those gearboxes at the time and the Sierra was the ultimate road car of the day - everyone making kit cars used the engine & gearbox at some point as they were so popular. Burton Power's BH4 is the one and it mentions the Cosworth anyhow so that's the gearbox you need. See Here

The speedo drive should be identical - see here as this fits both the Type 5 and T5!

It may be that the T5 is the same over there, see the Burton info the input shaft is 1" 23 spline and matches that on the type 5.

This info is all new on their website - it wasn't there all that long ago so is nice to finally get some specific info.

Not sure about the mount or the reverse switch but look here - looks the same as the burton one here

Lastly the mount - think it will fit but may need holes elongating in the mount plate or spacing up/down slightly for best fit.

I think the only mod is to reduce the propshaft nose by 1/2" , I do remeber an input shaft alteration on one conversion but not sure about this, but it would be easy enough to sort out at time of fitting.

Hope that helps, many thanks for your research findings too.

25th March 2010

By Patrick

A friend of mine who has a TVR Taimar (but no Internet) is interested to install a Ford Type 9 gearbox (for V6 Essex).

I think you will prepare an article on this topic.

Do you know the different gear ratios available ?

Have you by chance some information or interesting links on this matter ?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

I hope to prepare an article on this, yes. Burton Power can supply the bellhousing & loads of gearbox & gear kits! Take a look here under products, gearboxes:

10th July 2009

By Mike

I have a TVR 3000m and recently bought a new speedo transducer. The plug on the new transducer is different from the old one so i guess i will have to cut the old plug off and rewire it to my new part. Do you know what colours go where? The old transducer has solid colours on the wires and is made of alloy but the new one has tracer colours and is made of plastic. What gearbox do you have fitted, as the M series cars all used a speedo cable & gear as far as I know unless converted to say Rover V8?

1st April 2009

By Mike Zappa

What I would like to do is put an overdrive in the 3000S. I have a T5 but I'm not in the mood for major work, time and expense. I understand that Reliant Scimiter make an overdrive unit that fits the Essex.

Do you know what is needed for the conversion? Is it a direct bolt in? is it electronic like the Laycock type A? Where could I possibly source one in the States?
I work on a 3000S which has a 5 speed box fitted, but that's from a 1980's Ford Sierra. All that is needed (as far as I am aware) is the bellhousing is fitted from the old 4 speed 'box. the gearbox input shaft length and/or the propshaft to gearbox nose length has to be shortened by a small amount. It is not the electrical Laycock type so is quite straightforward to fit.

The Scimitar gearbox is (I am pretty sure) the electrical overdrive type, and as it was fitted to the V6 Essex in the Scimitar, should be a simple bolt on fit. I'm not 100% sure on this as I've never seen one, but must be easy to swap seeing as the engine is the same. I do remember on other tip - the overdrive may foul the chassis somewhere and therefore a small cutout may have to be made to allow clearance. I stress the word MAY as I am going on my limited knowledge ;o)

8th November 2005

By Leo

Based on the information I gathered it must be straight forward to swap the 4 speed gearbox for a 5 speed (type 9) if coupled to the standard Essex V6 bell housing but should the replacement gearbox have a long or short input shaft? I know it can be rectified but I don’t have the equipment to do it, so I rather buy a gearbox with the right shaft at once. If I was misinformed or the conversion is much more complicated please let know. I have found a really useful page on the internet to answer all your questions!

3rd July 2005

By Paul Bennett

I understand that that you can cut a hole in the gearbox tunnel to make checking / refilling the gearbox oil easier.

Do you have any measurements on where you should cut the hole etc + what's the best method of resealing.
I don't have the measurements for the gearbox filler access hole as it varies on different models. It is pretty easy to get under the car and see where the hole needs to be, so mark the fibreglass with a black marker pen or similar. Place a bright light in the transmission tunnel, then working inside the car pull back the carpet to reveal the bare fibreglass. It is semi transparent so you should be able to see the pen mark you have made, then just drill to a reasonable size, and seal the aluminium plate (or whatever you are using to blank the hole) with Dum-Dum putty or a stick on rubber gasket.

16th September 2004

By Charles Blow

I have an early 3000M with Capri 4-speed gearbox. Do you know where I can
get a rubber gaiter which fits over the opening in the bell housing where
the clutch actuating arm passes through? I have tried the local motor
factors who usually get parts for old Fords but no luck with this.

I have a Haynes manual for the Ford Capri II (all V6 models) which shows the
rubber gaiter clearly in the section on the clutch.

Might be worth trying the Ford Capri owners club. I will let you know if I
have any luck with them.

No idea i'm afraid - I need one too! Are you sure they had one originally as
I've never seen one fitted yet?

22nd July 2003

by Joop


My clutch is stuck. Tried all sorts like putting it on axle stands and let it run in gear. Tried starting it in 2nd and drive circles around the barn. No succes so far. Any ideas?

Joop's Reply on 22nd July 2003 - Great tip!!

Some weeks ago I asked your advice on this problem. It's finally solved! But not with the "techniques"you told me. Driving and hard braking just did not do the trick.I tried this many times but the b... just did not come loose.
I put the car on the bridge and removed the small metal plate underneath the flywheel. I let the engine idle and sprayed liberal doses of (disc)brake cleaning liquid into the small apertures left and right of the flywheel. Eventually the clutch plate came free. You could hear the enigine revving more freely. Now my beautiful Taimar Turbo roars again in the "polders" of Zeeland (Holland).

Additional useful tips submitted by Mark A on 27th June 2006:

I have read just about all of the advice given on your site and I have found another possible solution to the stuck clutch problem.

The other day I tried to start the car after about 4 months of storage and found the clutch to be stuck. To unstick the clutch I simply put the car in 1st gear, pushed the clutch in and then started the car (after making sure there was a bit of clear space in front of me, but you could probably do it just as well holding both the clutch and brake down). This loosened the clutch off first time.

I take it you mean it's siezed up & won't disengage - from being stored for a long time maybe?

If so, it can be really difficult to free it off - normally requiring gearbox removal. Have you checked the cable isn't locked up, and if it's free, that the clutch fork moves freely (if not the release bearing may have siezed on the gearbox input shaft)?

If both of these are fine then the only ways to try to free it are either using constant revs of about 4-5000 in neutral, depress & realease it a load of times as fast as you can. The spinning may help it work loose. If nothing happens (and I guess it won't in your case), and you have a safe area to try it (with a good grippy surface), drive up to a good speed in 1st gear, press the clutch in, and brake sharply a fraction after pressing down on the clutch pedal. As the clutch will be trying to release, the braking will quickly slow down the gearbox and the engine will want to keep spinning due to it's momentum. As long as the clutch is in all the time it may work free. Try it a few times from a good speed/high engine revs. All at your own risk of course!!!

Saying that, when I've had the same problem on front wheel drive cars you just pull on the handbrake with the clutch depressed (same principle really).
If still no luck then it's gearbox out time.

27th May 2003

by James Osbourne

I have a 3000M with original 4-speed box. Recently I have seen vibration wear in the ball & socket joint at bottom of gear lever, leading to a very noisy rattle at certain speeds

Is this a common problem? What can be done to repair or replace the worn parts. Do you have details (part no.s) of the parts and where they maybe found?

You may have looked at the base of the gear lever where it enters the gearbox - there is a screw on collar which holds it in place. Under that there is a spring and a nylon swivel joint held in place by a roll pin. This roll pin sits in a groove on the gearbox casing. Any play can be caused by a few things:

1 - Collar can work loose so check first, and make sure o ring is still there
2 - Spring broken - therefore not enough tension on balljoint
3 - Nylon balljoint can wear, but if spring is ok it should stop much of a rattle
4 - Selector shaft socket can wear (or gear lever ball at this point) casusing play

I would suggest points 1, 2 or 3 would be the cause - not too difficult to replace but parts are becoming scarce. I'm looking into stocking essential gearbox parts so check the website for updates. At present second hand parts would be the easiest place to find these bits.

See attached file with drawing I've made up this morning for an idea of the parts involved - this will also be on website from today.

Drawing is now available here for downloading:
Ford 4 Speed Gearbox Selector

The file is in .pdf format for viewing/printing with Adobe Acrobat free reader, click on link here to go to their download page:

14th May 2003

by Steve Bourne
My 1977 TVR 3000M is fitted with overdrive on 3rd and 4th gears. Does this mean the gearbox is from a Granada as opposed to a Capri - or are
they both the same anyway?
The overdrive gearbox was fitted to the Scimitar GTE's - a modification carried out by Reliant using the Laycock Overdirve. TVR did their own conversion using Reliant's ideas as a guide. Ford didn't offer overdrive for either the Granada or the Capri.