Questions - Ignition & Charging
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10th October 2009
By Ed VanVoorh
a trick to reinstalling the distributor hold down bolt? I've
Follow up by Ed on 10th Oct
the reply. a 1/4" drive worked, plus a liberal dose of ill wishes
on Ford and the motor's designer.
Follow up by Ed on 26th Oct
I am wondering about working with the timing a bit. With the air injection, etc. removed, I may be able to tune my way out of it. I did check the carb's internals and all seems to be clean. I run two fuel filters to prevent junk in the carb and try to keep the throttle plates clean.
the socket extension you are using fouling on the inlet manifold (1/2"
or 3/8" can foul depending on manifold type), the tight access means
the socket position is tilting the bolt so it doesn't go in straight.
If you have one try using a 1/4" extension bar with a wobble drive
end - as the smaller diameter extension means more room to line up, and
the wobble drive end allows the socket to tilt as required.
Follow up by M-Fix on 26th Oct
The hard acceleration "stumble" could be due to the carburettor acceleration pump diaphragm becoming perished - although a leak would normally appear if this were the case. You should also check the accelerator jets in the carburettor as these can become tarnished & clogged over time - requiring removal & cleaning with compressed air. With the engine off, remove the air filter housing and manually open the throttle fully while looking into the venturis on the carburettor - a jet of fuel should spray into the inlet manifold. Any blockage will show up as either a drip of fuel or none at all. If this is not the cause then you may find the one of the main jets are blocked, or there is another problem e.g. ignition - perhaps faulty condensor/ignition coil etc etc.
19th June 2007
By Rob Stanway
I have an early 1600M with questionable wiring. Im trying to sort a few things out. Can you tell me what the voltage stabiliser should be and the ballast resistor for the coil. Also Ive be told that there are coils that are ballasted and therefore need to extra resistor, is there a way of checking?
The + of the coil is only fed by 1 wire that does go through a resistor. Ive not traced the wire back from there yet. (the car did struggle to start when cold, but thats another story!) My rev counter hasnt been wired in properly. So I ran a wire from the of the coil back to the rev counter, and connected the other terminal to common green feeding the rest of the gauges on the dash. When I did this the engine spluttered and stopped, but the rev counter moved a little.
My thinking was to run new wire to the coil as in the diagrams from your site and to the rev counter to see if I could make things better.
Do you know which terminals are for what on the back of the rev counter? There are 2 bullet connectors, one above the other, and a shovel connector to the side of them? I currently have the top bullet to be + the lower and as yet am confused about the shovel.
The voltage stabiliser as you may have read is for the steadying of gauges that would otherwise be useless (i.e. fuel level and water temperature usually). I have used a stabiliser as fitted to old minis sucessfully, and you can see the way they are wired into the system using the downloadable wiring diagram on the website (just found photos weren't working so updated the page to make it complete again) only viewable in the members area but you are a member!
The ballast resistor starting system differs from a standard 12V coil system using the following method:
The coil is normally around 9 Volts on a ballasted system, and uses this lower voltage to boost the spark at starting (due to power loss caused by starter motor drain in cold conditions). When the ignition swith is turned to the start position, the power to the coil goes directly to the coil, hence boosting the spark. At all other times the supply to the coil is fed through the ballast resistor - hence the need for a lower than 12V standard coil. This is also an advantage in that the coil runs cooler due to the resistor generating a portion of the heat normally found in the coil, and the coil is therefore able to provide a better performance. Check your coil feed wire (on the + side) to see if it goes to a white ceramic item mounted near the coil - if so that is your ballast resistor.
second feed wire to the coil + terminal, you will find the car runs ok
using the ballast resistor, but on starting you won't get the extra boost
the whole system is intended to provide. You will need that second feed
to run from the starter solenoid so you get the full 12V to the coil only
when starting (i.e. bypassing the resistor). An alternative would be to
fit a 12V standard coil, and remove the ballast resistor altogether -
just you won't get the boost for starting at colder times of the year
- not always a problem for TVRs that are kept locked up for winter anyway!
27th April 2007
By Aiden McConnon
|Having a few electrical gremlins with my M at the moment (surprise surprise). The ignition light is staying on and the battery is not charging. Thought it would be the alternator, so had that re-built, an found the rectifier had gone. It seemed to cure it for about an hour, and now the same problem has come back, but more intermittent this time, so probably bad connection somewhere. What do you think I should be looking for?.||I
would first check the battery - it may have a bad cell. Also check battery
terminals are tight, earth to chassis is good (full continuity using an
Ohm Meter). Best way to test battery is using a drop tester - available
from may places - see link:
If all is ok here, suspect the wiring to the alternator or even perhaps the recon alternator has a fault (unlikely but still a possibility). Also check wiring to ammeter (if fitted) as this can cause a charge fault. Please see downloadable wiring diagram in my Technical manual for info.
19th September 2006
By Steve Lewis
|I have a 3000s which has recently developed a severe misfire when the car has driven approx 25 miles. I suspect the coil may be at fault as it seems quite hot. The present coil is the original Commercial Ignition V8039 with 3 terminals plus the HT lead.I cannot seem to be able to find a new replacement.||The
type of coil you require depends on whether you have the ballast resistor
fitted or not. For this ballasted system the coil is different, and gives
12 Volts staring, but 6-9 Volts running. This is so that when turning over
th eengine a full spark is fed to the plugs - without it the spark is weaker
due to the load on the starter.
Any motor parts supplier shoud be able to provide you with one (e.g. halfords) - simply see if you have a ballast resistor fitted to the ignition (will be somewhere near the coil and wired in to the + side of the low tension circuit (small wires to/from the coil). It sill probably be a white ceramic block with a metal bracket, or sometimes like a silver cylindrical relay.
5th July 2006
By Paul Filippucci
want to up grade to a 60 plus amp. alternator, my original one is about
ready to die, I am going to go with electric cooling fans on rad. rather
then the one attached to engine plus hopefully will be instaling an a/c
unit in car sometime in future.
So with orginal wiring how many amps might I go up to? Is there anything else I need to change on car.
The current alternator was rewired internally so that the NB brown with blue strip is not attached. The new alternator that I can have built to my spec (ie amps) has one post to attach brown and brown yellow so should the NB be attached to it also? Any suggestions would greatly help me in deciding what to do.
sure on the original wiring max. amperage, as the wiring could vary from
vehicle to vehicle
depending on if it has been modified from that fitted originally. I would think that it should be
able to cope with any output alternator, but if in doubt change the wiring N from the alternator to
the main bulkhead terminal to a thicker gauge, and the NB wire also.
As for your second question, it may be wise to attach both wires to the terminal to allow the current to pass to the loom without overheating - one wire could be overloaded if all the consumers are on at the same time (eg heated rear window, headlamps, heater fan, cooling fan, wipers etc etc).
27th July 2005
By Victor Svekolkin
|I would like to change my Essex 3 litre V6 to electronic ignition. Do you know a good supplier of the necessary kit to convert my distributor or a straight replacement? Reliability and performance from an old car is my aim so advice is greatly appreciated.||I will shortly (hopefully in the next 2-3 weeks) be stocking such an item for sale on the website. In the mean time if you need one ASAP try http://www.burtonpower.com|
6th June 2004
I time my TVR, I remove and plug the vacuums line to the distributor, the
recommended idle speed should be set also at this time, in which it would
go up when I reattach the vacuum line or do I set the timing put the vacuum
line back and then set the idle.
||Yes you're right, set the timing with vacuum pipe disconnected & plugged, then reconnect, then set idle.|
On the Ford V6 Essex the plug gap is 0.60mm (0.024in), and the points gap is 0.64mm (0.025in) - or 36º to 40º Dwell angle.