Technical Questions - Steering
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Page last updated 7 January, 2009





Date asked

Question Answer

7th January 2009

By Davie Smith


Can you tell me what the steering angle in º is from straight ahead to full lock. I am thinking in rose joining the front suspension and cannot find a rose joint with more than +/- 24º

From my TR6 data I have these bits of data:

Maximum front lock = 30º
Maximum Back Lock = 31½º

I think this is what you are after - makes sense that the front & back (per side) differs due to the kingpin stops.

Also it may help to know the turning circle is 10.1 Metres (for a TR6), a bit of geometry could be used to work back to get an angle of sorts!

2nd August 2006

By Martyn Harvey

I have recently become the owner of a 1975 2500M with a Chevy 350 V8 motor.

I am currently trying to get the car on the road and have installed new springs, shocks, and new brakes. There is too much play in the steering and I am just reading up on the adjustments on the rack. I see that the rack is out of a Triumph 2000 not a TR6. Are the inner tie rods from the Triumph 2000 as well? Of course the car is a left hand drive. I'm sure I will have to replace them unless they are adjustable.

Follow up on 5th August 2006:

So the TR6 tie rod ends I purchased are not correct then? They look the
same. Are they interchangeable?

Yes the rack and tie rods are also from the 2000 - and don't forget that the play
in them can be adjusted. Also make sure the tensioner spring is shimmed up
correctly (the nut under the grease point on top of the pinion area on the rack.

When the car is jacked up play in the rack may just be this adjustment - and is
normally seen on the pinion side of the rack more than the other side (nearside
in your case).

The tie rods may well be interchangeable - I think there is some confusion over here as to which parts come from which vehicle. All I know is that the steering arm on the swivel hub can be incorrect so just match up the item you have with the old part, and if 100% identical then it should be fine!

24th July 2006

by Steve Denham

I am restoring a 1977 TVR 3000m That I bought as a part finished project with many boxes of parts! I am making progress on most fronts but there are parts I am short of. Could you tell me where I could get a steering bush from? I have refitted the steering column and
after one UJ it passes through a short tube that is attached to the chassis which has a grease nipple on. I can see a bush at the top of the pipe but it is open at the bottom. I am looking for two of these bushes (I may as well replace the top one too) so that I can complete the installation and charge the short pipe with grease again.

Thanks for your email. The steering column tube has 2 rubber/plastic bushes which are available from
David Gerald Sportscars Ltd

or alternatively from Rimmer Brothers who supply Triumph spares.

The steering column nylon chassis bush should also be available from David Gerald and Exactly TVR

12th October 2005

by Raphaël

I'd like to buy a 2500M in France, but it is a RHD?
Do you think it is possible to change it in a LHD? What parts do I need?
From what a car ?(is the steering the same as the TR6?)
Changing the car to LHD would mean replacing the steering rack, welding a
steering column guide onto the chassis, moving the heater assembly to the
o/s bulkhead, moving the pedal assembly & fibreglassing the holes left by
the heater motor, brake master cylinder & servo to the n/s of the car,
altering the clutch cable (perhaps replacement with longer type), remounting
the steering column to the n/s & dashboard instruments, plus moving the
wiring for the ignition switch & controls to the other side. Also some brake
pipe re-routing, and moving the battery (99% sure about that). Alteration to
handbrake lever position, and gear lever shape. The handbrake lever
mountings could mean plates have to be welded to the chassis - therefore
could be body shell removal for this.

The hardest part of it is the time it takes to move all of these things
over! I have no info. on this yet as I know of no-one who has done it,
but thinking about it, that should be most of it!

1st September 2005

By Paul Bennett

When I brought my tvr3000m the previous owner mentioned that he had steering vibration @ around 70mph.

He had all four wheels rebalanced and it seemed much better.

Cannot confirm until my car is back on the road.

I ask the question as another tvr owner with a 3000s mention the same problem with steering vibration , is this a m series issue , Is there anything that causes steering vibration that should be checked, all my suspension / steering components seem ok .
Steering vibration is not an M Series issue, it is "usual" when the wheels are damaged or out of balance on any car. The vibration occurs at different speeds or even continuously depending on the cause. Also check for loose wheel nuts, uneven wear or damage on the tyres.

Of course other components can cause similar symptoms, such as worn suspension bushes, trunnion joints etc when they cause the suspension to go out of alignment. However the wear would normally have to be severe to cause the steering to shake. Worn dampers can cause steering shake when hitting bumps.

Check all the steering/suspension components regardless if you are experiencing such problems as safety is most important. Spin the wheels to check for trueness, and get the wheels balanced (or even fine balancing if your local tyre shop offers this service - most good tyre balancing machines have a fine balancing option).

29th June 2005

By Paul Bennett

I have a question regarding replacing the left hand (passenger side) steering rack rubber gaiter.

Mine has seen better days and is a little perished.

I removed the track rod end and nut and then removed the old gaiter , which seemed to get stuck on the tie rod ball joint housing and took quite a bit of pulling and cutting to remove.

Do you know the best way to expand the gaiter do get it over
the tie rod bal joint housing without splitting the replacement gaiter.
Normally you can put a bit of grease on the new gaiter and it will stretch over ok. Just make sure that any sharp edge is smoothed off a bit with some emery paper first. On driveshaft gaiters sometimes special cones are used to stretch them over cv outer joints - so don't worry about stretching a steering gaiter over the rack joints as it's small in comparison. Try tretching the gaiter first a few times before trying to fit - that will make it much easier as the rubber becomes more supple.

20th June 2005

By Paul Bennett

Do you know what model of triumph the steering column is from as I need to replace the upper steering column bush.

Any info / tips on replacing ?.
I'm pretty sure the column is from a 2000, TR6 or GT6 - however the bush is the same for all and available from Rimmer Brothers (try a google search for their website). To replace it remove the steering wheel and all controls/covers to get to the two location holes for the bush. Try to cut off the rubber protruding from the holes to allow the bush to move more freely. Undo the lower steering column locknut & hex key (imperial size) to unlock the sliding part of the column (it's adjustable) and then pull up on the steering column to act like a slide hammer to extract the bush. Replacement is pretty easy - use a bit of washing up liquid to ease the new bush into the column tube, and grease the inner part of the bush. Do this using a suitably sized metal tube and small mallet. It may help to remove the complete column outer to prevent stressing the column to body shell mountings. Make sure the 2 lugs line up with the holes in the column tube so it "locks" into place once at the correct depth. Finally refit the other parts removed.
24th June 2003

by Stewart Weston
Could you please forward any info and more importantly your views on - Aluminium (Steering) rack mounting kit? As far as I know the steering on the M series is prone to bump steer partly due to the steering rack position relative to the steering arm on the vertical link. As there is a rubber mounting system this could also be seen as a weakness - allowing slight movement when hitting bumps etc. A solid type rack mount would certainly help this, not a bad thing, but could be slightly less comfortable to drive (somehow I doubt this as some cars like minis have a solid rack fixing. If it lowers the steering rack to reduce the angle from the rack to the steering arm on the vertical link then that would not be a bad thing.

7th May 2003

by Rob Evans

Updated on
5th August 2004

I have a 1977 Taimar, My steering rack has some play on the nearside. The ball/socket joint appears to be ok, is there any adjustment or is it a replacement rack? If so what is the rack and where do I get one. I live in Cornwall. As the movement is on the nearside of the rack it won't be the pinion nut shims needing adjusting - that is on the offside of the rack. It is quite common for there to be play on the offside of the rack (on right hand drive models - vice versa on LHD racks).
As you say it's not the balljoint (I assume that's the track rod end balljoint), then it will be the steering rack track rod's inner joint on the nearside. This is a ball and socket type joint which comprises of the track rod with its inner end machined into a large ball shape. This locates onto a corresponding socket which allows the track rod to swivel which allows for the varying angles when steering and as the suspension rises & falls. The ball & socket are kept in place by a large elongated nut, and shims are used to adjust the clearance between the two to the correct tolerance. This tolerance is tight but able to be swivelled without any tight spots once the nut is torqued to the correct level. A steel tab washer is fitted to prevent the nut undoing once ball/socket are set to correct tightness.

As for your question on the rack itself, the rack is really a mechanical device which transfers the movement of your steering wheel (and down the steering column) to turn the wheels on both sides of the car. The pinion is part of the complete steering rack assembly which the universal joint from the steering column fits to. This pinion is a shaft which has gear on the lower end, and meshes with corresponding teeth on a horizontal bar (called the rack). As the steering column is turned, the gear moves anti-clockwise or clockwise, hence winding the rack to the left or right respectively. This is what steers the wheels (and therefore the car).

The rack itself is I'm almost certain is off a Triumph TR6 (see new update below from 5th Aug 2004), and can be bought from a few places. You may wish to repair your own rack or get someone to do it for you - then you would only need a track rod repair kit which comes with all the components you need. Bear in mind it's one of the most crucial things to get right on the car, as a mistake in assembly could result in a serious accident if something works loose.

I would recommend Rimmer Brothers for a recon. rack, or a repair kit for the track rod balljoint. They have a great catalogue and are at this website:

From my parts book from them the part number for the rack is 306829 for a new one, 306829R for a reconditioned one, and 142687 for a track rod & balljoint repair kit, but check with them to make sure.

Another place to buy a rack (and maybe a repair kit) would be David Gerald Sportscars Ltd - see the links page on the M-Fix website

UPDATE ON 5th August 2004

John Buszard from the USA has added this comment for further assistance here:

The answer to your tech question on steering from Rob Evans states that the rack is probably TR6. It is not TR6 and it is quite difficult to fit a TR6
rack. It is actually a Triumph 2000 rack which does not help those of us
with LHD cars one bit!