7th January 2009
By Davie Smith
Can you tell me what the steering angle in º is from straight ahead to full lock. I am thinking in rose joining the front suspension and cannot find a rose joint with more than +/- 24º
From my TR6
data I have these bits of data:
2nd August 2006
By Martyn Harvey
have recently become the owner of a 1975 2500M with a Chevy 350 V8 motor.
I am currently trying to get the car on the road and have installed new springs, shocks, and new brakes. There is too much play in the steering and I am just reading up on the adjustments on the rack. I see that the rack is out of a Triumph 2000 not a TR6. Are the inner tie rods from the Triumph 2000 as well? Of course the car is a left hand drive. I'm sure I will have to replace them unless they are adjustable.
Follow up on 5th August 2006:
So the TR6 tie rod ends I purchased are not correct then? They look the
same. Are they interchangeable?
The tie rods may well be interchangeable - I think there is some confusion over here as to which parts come from which vehicle. All I know is that the steering arm on the swivel hub can be incorrect so just match up the item you have with the old part, and if 100% identical then it should be fine!
24th July 2006
by Steve Denham
am restoring a 1977 TVR 3000m That I bought as a part finished project with
many boxes of parts! I am making progress on most fronts but there are parts
I am short of. Could you tell me where I could get a steering bush from?
I have refitted the steering column and
after one UJ it passes through a short tube that is attached to the chassis which has a grease nipple on. I can see a bush at the top of the pipe but it is open at the bottom. I am looking for two of these bushes (I may as well replace the top one too) so that I can complete the installation and charge the short pipe with grease again.
your email. The steering column tube has 2 rubber/plastic bushes which
are available from
The steering column nylon chassis bush should also be available from David Gerald and Exactly TVR http://www.exactly-tvr.demon.co.uk/
12th October 2005
like to buy a 2500M in France, but it is a RHD?
Do you think it is possible to change it in a LHD? What parts do I need?
From what a car ?(is the steering the same as the TR6?)
the car to LHD would mean replacing the steering rack, welding a
steering column guide onto the chassis, moving the heater assembly to the
o/s bulkhead, moving the pedal assembly & fibreglassing the holes left by
the heater motor, brake master cylinder & servo to the n/s of the car,
altering the clutch cable (perhaps replacement with longer type), remounting
the steering column to the n/s & dashboard instruments, plus moving the
wiring for the ignition switch & controls to the other side. Also some brake
pipe re-routing, and moving the battery (99% sure about that). Alteration to
handbrake lever position, and gear lever shape. The handbrake lever
mountings could mean plates have to be welded to the chassis - therefore
could be body shell removal for this.
part of it is the time it takes to move all of these things
1st September 2005
By Paul Bennett
I brought my tvr3000m the previous owner mentioned that he had steering
vibration @ around 70mph.
He had all four wheels rebalanced and it seemed much better.
Cannot confirm until my car is back on the road.
I ask the question as another tvr owner with a 3000s mention the same problem with steering vibration , is this a m series issue , Is there anything that causes steering vibration that should be checked, all my suspension / steering components seem ok .
vibration is not an M Series issue, it is "usual" when the wheels
are damaged or out of balance on any car. The vibration occurs at different
speeds or even continuously depending on the cause. Also check for loose
wheel nuts, uneven wear or damage on the tyres.
Of course other components can cause similar symptoms, such as worn suspension bushes, trunnion joints etc when they cause the suspension to go out of alignment. However the wear would normally have to be severe to cause the steering to shake. Worn dampers can cause steering shake when hitting bumps.
Check all the steering/suspension components regardless if you are experiencing such problems as safety is most important. Spin the wheels to check for trueness, and get the wheels balanced (or even fine balancing if your local tyre shop offers this service - most good tyre balancing machines have a fine balancing option).
29th June 2005
By Paul Bennett
have a question regarding replacing the left hand (passenger side) steering
rack rubber gaiter.
Mine has seen better days and is a little perished.
I removed the track rod end and nut and then removed the old gaiter , which seemed to get stuck on the tie rod ball joint housing and took quite a bit of pulling and cutting to remove.
Do you know the best way to expand the gaiter do get it over
the tie rod bal joint housing without splitting the replacement gaiter.
|Normally you can put a bit of grease on the new gaiter and it will stretch over ok. Just make sure that any sharp edge is smoothed off a bit with some emery paper first. On driveshaft gaiters sometimes special cones are used to stretch them over cv outer joints - so don't worry about stretching a steering gaiter over the rack joints as it's small in comparison. Try tretching the gaiter first a few times before trying to fit - that will make it much easier as the rubber becomes more supple.|
20th June 2005
By Paul Bennett
you know what model of triumph the steering column is from as I need to
replace the upper steering column bush.
Any info / tips on replacing ?.
pretty sure the column is from a 2000, TR6 or GT6 - however the bush is
the same for all and available from Rimmer Brothers (try a google search
for their website). To replace it remove the steering wheel and all controls/covers
to get to the two location holes for the bush. Try to cut off the rubber
protruding from the holes to allow the bush to move more freely. Undo the
lower steering column locknut & hex key (imperial size) to unlock the
sliding part of the column (it's adjustable) and then pull up on the steering
column to act like a slide hammer to extract the bush. Replacement is pretty
easy - use a bit of washing up liquid to ease the new bush into the column
tube, and grease the inner part of the bush. Do this using a suitably sized
metal tube and small mallet. It may help to remove the complete column outer
to prevent stressing the column to body shell mountings. Make sure the 2
lugs line up with the holes in the column tube so it "locks" into
place once at the correct depth. Finally refit the other parts removed.
by Stewart Weston
|Could you please forward any info and more importantly your views on - Aluminium (Steering) rack mounting kit?||As
far as I know the steering on the M series is prone to bump steer partly
due to the steering rack position relative to the steering arm on the vertical
link. As there is a rubber mounting system this could also be seen as a
weakness - allowing slight movement when hitting bumps etc. A solid type
rack mount would certainly help this, not a bad thing, but could be slightly
less comfortable to drive (somehow I doubt this as some cars like minis
have a solid rack fixing. If it lowers the steering rack to reduce the angle
from the rack to the steering arm on the vertical link then that would not
be a bad thing.
7th May 2003
|I have a 1977 Taimar, My steering rack has some play on the nearside. The ball/socket joint appears to be ok, is there any adjustment or is it a replacement rack? If so what is the rack and where do I get one. I live in Cornwall.||As
the movement is on the nearside of the rack it won't be the pinion nut shims
needing adjusting - that is on the offside of the rack. It is quite common
for there to be play on the offside of the rack (on right hand drive models
- vice versa on LHD racks).
As you say it's not the balljoint (I assume that's the track rod end balljoint), then it will be the steering rack track rod's inner joint on the nearside. This is a ball and socket type joint which comprises of the track rod with its inner end machined into a large ball shape. This locates onto a corresponding socket which allows the track rod to swivel which allows for the varying angles when steering and as the suspension rises & falls. The ball & socket are kept in place by a large elongated nut, and shims are used to adjust the clearance between the two to the correct tolerance. This tolerance is tight but able to be swivelled without any tight spots once the nut is torqued to the correct level. A steel tab washer is fitted to prevent the nut undoing once ball/socket are set to correct tightness.
As for your question on the rack itself, the rack is really a mechanical device which transfers the movement of your steering wheel (and down the steering column) to turn the wheels on both sides of the car. The pinion is part of the complete steering rack assembly which the universal joint from the steering column fits to. This pinion is a shaft which has gear on the lower end, and meshes with corresponding teeth on a horizontal bar (called the rack). As the steering column is turned, the gear moves anti-clockwise or clockwise, hence winding the rack to the left or right respectively. This is what steers the wheels (and therefore the car).
The rack itself is I'm almost certain is off a Triumph TR6 (see new update below from 5th Aug 2004), and can be bought from a few places. You may wish to repair your own rack or get someone to do it for you - then you would only need a track rod repair kit which comes with all the components you need. Bear in mind it's one of the most crucial things to get right on the car, as a mistake in assembly could result in a serious accident if something works loose.
I would recommend Rimmer Brothers for a recon. rack, or a repair kit for the track rod balljoint. They have a great catalogue and are at this website: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk
From my parts book from them the part number for the rack is 306829 for a new one, 306829R for a reconditioned one, and 142687 for a track rod & balljoint repair kit, but check with them to make sure.
Another place to buy a rack (and maybe a repair kit) would be David Gerald Sportscars Ltd - see the links page on the M-Fix website http://tvr.m-fix.co.uk
UPDATE ON 5th August 2004
John Buszard from the USA has added this comment for further assistance here:
The answer to your tech question on steering from Rob Evans states that the rack is probably TR6. It is not TR6 and it is quite difficult to fit a TR6
rack. It is actually a Triumph 2000 rack which does not help those of us
with LHD cars one bit!